tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-59215771088375977372024-02-19T17:27:51.415+01:00Stewart Watson ClimbingUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger128125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-7680832387452161002016-02-15T19:48:00.002+01:002016-02-15T19:48:37.817+01:00Back to Font...Heading back to Font on Saturday for a week.<br />
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Follow my Instagram account for photos of the trip. Stewwatson is my username.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-92074632335883604972015-06-22T17:13:00.000+02:002015-06-22T17:13:05.172+02:00Beyond the Face<a href="http://www.beyond-the-face.com/">BEYOND THE FACE</a> portrays 30 years of competition climbing. A must-have item for climbers and collectors of climbing literature.<br />
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300 pages, 43 interviews, 39 profiles, artistic action photos, a short
insight into the history of compeition climbing and a rich tapestry of
statistics.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-23992981079478202582014-05-05T15:12:00.000+02:002015-09-10T19:30:03.692+02:00Ötzerau Sessions<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;"><span style="font-size: xx-small;">E</span>rkenntis <i>(woodslave productions)</i></span></td></tr>
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">In 2012 Markus and Gabi Bacher took their dog for a walk near their house in Ötzerau, Oetztal. As they ventured through the thick Green forest they accidentally discovered a gully hidden amongst the trees. Sabby's Mum took a photo and showed us the area they had found the following week. The wall looked small on the photo but we agreed to go and have a look. Markus led us up through the forest with a wide grin spread across his face, his dog excitedly bouncing between boulders and felled trees up ahead. We approached a clearing and enjoyed the immense view of Oetztal and Inntal before eventually arriving at the gully. A granite wall stood proud in the evening sunlight. Within 2 months the Bacher sisters, Heiko, Elias, Hens, Markus Haid and I had bolted and cleaned most of the routes and got stuck into attempting to climb them. Here is a list of the routes described from left to right. </span></span><br />
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Thanks to Heiko Wilhelm for providing the bolts and chains<span style="font-size: small;">!</span></span></span></div>
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<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span class="st" style="font-size: small;">Waldameisen</span><span style="font-size: small;"> 7c ...<span style="font-size: small;"> </span>FA Markus Haid</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Ninja 7c+ ..<span style="font-size: small;">. </span>FA Markus Haid</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Soldier Ant 7c+ ...<span style="font-size: small;"> </span>FA Sabine Bacher</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Behind the Tree 8b </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Le Gourmet ~8a ...<span style="font-size: small;"> FA</span> Katharina Bacher</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Erkenntis 8b+ ...<span style="font-size: small;"> </span>FA Heiko Wilhelm</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Black Mamba dont Text 8a+ ... Bolted by Elias Holzknec<span style="font-size: small;">ht</span> </span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Bausparen 7b+ ... FA Babsy Bacher</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Lokal Matador 7c+ ... FA Hansjörg Auer</span></span><br />
<span style="font-family: "Helvetica Neue",Arial,Helvetica,sans-serif;"><span style="font-size: small;">Heimort 8a ... FA Markus Haid</span></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-88791537049047478092014-04-13T12:20:00.002+02:002014-04-13T12:20:25.531+02:00CWIF 2014What an event ...Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-36218715298922400752014-01-09T19:26:00.000+01:002014-01-09T19:26:16.583+01:00Israel Climbing TripJust got back from a mega climbing adventure in Israel and Palestine. More info to follow shortly...Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-15559796868649209782013-11-03T18:53:00.002+01:002013-11-03T19:44:20.731+01:00One Night Stand<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>Looking out over Längenfeld</i></td></tr>
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Every now and then you come across a route or boulder that just seems to capture you in some unique way. ‘One Night Stand’ at Niederthai was an old project that Reinhard Schiestl started back in the 90s. It later received some attention from the local climbing hero Markus Haid, who finished equipping the route. Jakob Schubert made the much sought-after first ascent in 2010 and graded it hard Fr8c+. I often attempted the route for a day or two in Autumn when every other route was wet or it was just too cold to climb in the shade. I was fascinated with the moves and the history of the route. Niederthai has a lot of history. Reini Schiestl along with other local climbers found the hidden granite blocks sitting quietly between the towering pine trees on a hill overlooking the picturesque village of Längenfeld. However, the climbing area went quiet after Reini’s fatal car accident in 1995. It wasn’t until some time later when Markus Haid and a bunch of keen young climbers including my good friend Heiko Wilhelm continued Reini’s legacy and finished equipping the climbing area of Niederthai. Markus Haid made the first ascent of another one of Reini’s old projects back in 2001 and appropriately named it ‘In Memo Reini’. Ever since, Niederthai is becoming more and more popular and it leaves every visiting climber with a sense of curiosity about what really lies deep in that mysterious forest. <br /><br />The crux of ‘One Night Stand’ involves a solid toe hook on an arête allowing the climber to make a massive cross-through before a wild cut loose allows you to reach the next crimp. The route is a real test of power endurance and I enjoyed the process of slowly progressing, inching every session a touch higher and eventually having enough fitness to link the entire route and make the 2nd ascent of ‘One Night Stand’. After the ascent I sat up high on one of the blocks that slightly reaches over the pine trees and thought about my own history with the area of Niederthai. I have slowly worked my way through all of the existing hard routes at Niederthai, and thinking back to every route brings back some great memories. This place is special. <br /> </div>
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What’s next? I don’t know. We have a few new areas dotted around Oetztal. Hopefully I will be able to find something that will push my climbing a little further and give Oetztal something as special as Niederthai...let the search continue!<br /><br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-48225666006384064502013-10-13T18:29:00.001+02:002013-10-13T18:36:14.419+02:00Climbing Trainer Course Innsbruck<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4tG3tE6Sop_8bLIDMixKFbN_sifq6rrS_dogsD8c57ybqOwKUx0F2M8PVlMpjW8XI2DnDm-GyxT7RtDE3RbGLcMi1gt6OesWIXgwMNLyE0ZFfUbA3cEGTKn2jt1Sf1Inm-I5RUGvkUaM/s1600/instruktor_13_1.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4tG3tE6Sop_8bLIDMixKFbN_sifq6rrS_dogsD8c57ybqOwKUx0F2M8PVlMpjW8XI2DnDm-GyxT7RtDE3RbGLcMi1gt6OesWIXgwMNLyE0ZFfUbA3cEGTKn2jt1Sf1Inm-I5RUGvkUaM/s320/instruktor_13_1.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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<i>I never realised that climbing is so complicated until attending this course...the Austrians certainly know what climbing actually involves. A great experience and I am thoroughly looking forward to the next stage. </i></div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-79816815332240377842013-10-09T16:35:00.000+02:002013-10-13T21:17:58.275+02:00Sardegna Autumn Trip<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCN192AGYgwWGqXzK_tMz-hI1uDjnA42EErBA_IfPyRyuwA_5Jz_w2feEE9am69L9B_wgMFYDxSQPlOXl5i51wb68szu8Mo7FtXBcEeMNkT2LZRiknFN8cqWxQTDEekwgSf8iB7CQgCVk/s1600/800px-Flag_of_the_Italian_region_Sardinia.svg.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="212" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgCN192AGYgwWGqXzK_tMz-hI1uDjnA42EErBA_IfPyRyuwA_5Jz_w2feEE9am69L9B_wgMFYDxSQPlOXl5i51wb68szu8Mo7FtXBcEeMNkT2LZRiknFN8cqWxQTDEekwgSf8iB7CQgCVk/s320/800px-Flag_of_the_Italian_region_Sardinia.svg.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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I first visited Sardinia back in 2003 with my Dad and a good friend, Luis. We had planned to escape the bad weather in the UK and had visions of climbing in the sun, whilst the rain continued to fall back in Manchester. As we approached the island, the weather was looking bad and, flying through dark stormy clouds, the hopes of climbing in the sun started to diminish. I remember that we attempted to drive to Cala Ganone but had to give up and stay in a village above the port because snow was blocking the road. We ended up drinking lots of grappa and having a massive snow ball fight in the local market square. Fortunately though, the weather improved and we were eventually able to climb.<br /><br /> </div>
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Ten years later, I was off to Sardinia again, this time with Sabby. The weather in Tirol was horrendous but as we drove south the skies began to clear and the autumn sun began to re-energise our batteries. We were ready for a climbing trip! We met up with Kili, Anna, Reini and Tanja and started to explore some of the fantastic climbing areas in Sardinia. The harder climbing areas are a little out of fashion so it is very unusual to meet anyone else at the crag. I can recommend the climbing area of ‘So Telergin Oro’ for climbers who sought after steep tufa climbs. <br /><br />We had some fantastic days climbing and swimming under the Mediterranean sun. One unforgettable day was when we decided to climb the Goloritze. There are two possible ways to approach this limestone spire from Cala Ganone. You can drive a good two hours and walk down towards the coast for an hour. Alternatively, and much more fun, you can hire a little speed boat from Cala Gonone and race across the choppy bay until the spire becomes visible. Cala Goloritze is a protected part of the coastline so boats should not anchor close to the beach. We decided this wouldn’t be a problem for us. We protected our climbing gear in bin bags and made a few trips back and forth from the boat to the shore, with the climbing gear balanced on Sabby’s lilo. We climbed the spire in four pitches and were able to enjoy the awe-inspiring view on the tiny summit before jetting back to Cala Ganone enjoying the evening sun before it hid behind the mountain range.<br /><br />We will definitely be returning to Sardinia in the near future, possibly to explore some more of the multi-pitch sport climbing on the island. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-dDz2CS0OIsxRDTeBw1mPJ2WQcv0WIVGRlfeLfHG6Mr2u0dqJmNCipwLLb3DfvWwgXUX-ZDoVnpmX9tYUro-CZ-_8wYq0iI4DxreE0wnLXTaiVR3hjVV-eEjdoGxA7TJOU0VoHGgyQEs/s1600/DSCN3537.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="150" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-dDz2CS0OIsxRDTeBw1mPJ2WQcv0WIVGRlfeLfHG6Mr2u0dqJmNCipwLLb3DfvWwgXUX-ZDoVnpmX9tYUro-CZ-_8wYq0iI4DxreE0wnLXTaiVR3hjVV-eEjdoGxA7TJOU0VoHGgyQEs/s200/DSCN3537.JPG" width="200" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>photo: Kilian Fischhuber</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSGj8kGK8tT0ABjud6_6XVzP18slr5Ao2ogLf6bdf8FThAznf5P42tLTSIPiKLImEUzCLoSEGsyNFyEusqrVzLjtwYcDs7FD2HEWF0_ghwJu6rQZpwDFXy-azZ213a3djFrkEsiD1CF1o/s1600/DSCN3572.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="200" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSGj8kGK8tT0ABjud6_6XVzP18slr5Ao2ogLf6bdf8FThAznf5P42tLTSIPiKLImEUzCLoSEGsyNFyEusqrVzLjtwYcDs7FD2HEWF0_ghwJu6rQZpwDFXy-azZ213a3djFrkEsiD1CF1o/s200/DSCN3572.JPG" width="150" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>photo: Kilian Fischhuber</i></td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><i>photo: </i><span class="st"><i>Anna Stöhr</i></span></td></tr>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-7852074528238366462013-08-22T12:28:00.000+02:002014-04-13T12:19:52.865+02:00Black Mamba Don’t Text<div style="text-align: justify;">
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Last year we found one of the best new climbing areas in Tirol and the
projects are slowly getting ticked off by the Oetztal climbing team. Elias
Holzknecht bolted one of the king lines at the crag and kindly decided
to declare his project open and free for people to try. I was keen to
get stuck into a project and started working out the crux sequence. The
route is incredible. It involves a pumpy bottom section leading to an
amazing rest followed by a few really powerful moves on compact black
granite. The upper section, winding up towards the chain, is technical and
involves squeezing some wide granite pinches. </div>
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The route is named ‘Black
Mamba Don’t Text’ and is graded Fr8a+. </div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr9Lf4uNvCzUmc8qjQYN2UiJFbhbkLXN__B1-rmvzQnlPp1S4pOCm97R02zvBGn2MxUsDxGmAa8nYLid_LoBi2B7q8q_uFFzQJzWR5RjEm5BcxvEDmF18LyZT-iVZpNhto41fYjZ34Cuw/s1600/EH-LukasEnnemoser-OetzerAu-4669.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgr9Lf4uNvCzUmc8qjQYN2UiJFbhbkLXN__B1-rmvzQnlPp1S4pOCm97R02zvBGn2MxUsDxGmAa8nYLid_LoBi2B7q8q_uFFzQJzWR5RjEm5BcxvEDmF18LyZT-iVZpNhto41fYjZ34Cuw/s200/EH-LukasEnnemoser-OetzerAu-4669.jpg" height="200" width="133" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Lukas Ennemoser on the 2nd Ascent</td></tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-11754852341105177052013-01-08T21:34:00.004+01:002013-01-20T17:18:43.886+01:002012<div style="text-align: justify;">
<i>2012 began in the wild fisherman’s village of Whitby, contemplating the year ahead on long coastal walks, with the stormy sea blowing in the wind and in the historical White Horse and Griffin, where sailers from the past rested before their next adventures.<br /><br />The rest of the Winter was spent training, snow shoveling, lots of ski-touring and free-riding on clouds of deep white dust. <br /><br />A short trip to Fontainebleau prepared me for the competition season. In Fontainebleau we climbed some classics and some more classics, dreamt about climbing some other classics and so on...it was an awesome trip. However, the competition season started off slow for me. I felt physically prepared but was unable to find the right mental zone required in order to be able to compete well. I had a few lonely training sessions on my fingerboard and at the bouldering wall where I was able to find the balance again. At the following round of the Bouldering World Cup in Innsbruck I finished 6th in the final. I drove home knowing that the rest of my year would be a good one. I finished 6th at the final round of the Bouldering World Cup in Munich and it was a satisfying feeling turning my competition season into a good one. <br /><br />The year has been full of different rock projects and with the totally unexpected finding of a new climbing area in Ötztal I was able to pick, bolt, clean and climb some new lines. Some major highlights of the year include making the first ascents of some older projects in Ötztal; ‘Ganesha’ and ‘Don Pedro’. Another major highlight was climbing the classic ‘Wall Street’ in Frankenjura with my Dad and Sabby, it was just an awesome weekend desperately trying to stay warm during a fierce cold front.<br /><br />The year finished free-riding through Polles Tal in Ötztal with some good friends and, as the winter sun set, I found myself in a new setting contemplating the new year ahead. </i></div>
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<i>Let’s see what 2013 brings!</i><br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-45335420559915372502012-10-31T15:56:00.000+01:002012-11-28T12:33:50.208+01:00Wall Street<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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In 1987 Wolfgang Güllich established the World's first 8c with 'Wall Street' in Frankenjura. 1987!<br />
Sabby and I met my Dad in Frankenjura for a short climbing trip. We'd
hoped for perfect conditions and to get loads of climbing done. What
awaited us was quite the opposite. On Saturday it snowed and we ended up
at the 'Fight Club' bouldering wall in Betzenstein. On Sunday we awoke
to beautiful weather but freezing temperatures. We were optimistic and
decided to head to the crag. After a really cold uninspiring warm-up, we
got stuck into our routes on the Krottenseer Turm. I clipped up 'Wall
Street' and worked out the moves again. It felt really cold and I was
pretty close to giving up. I gave the route 2 attempts and fell both
times on the last hard move due to freezing fingers. My skin wasn't
looking good and I knew I had just one more go left. I gave it
everything and clipped the chains in relief. My skin was destroyed.
Sabby and my Dad battled it out on the Turm for a another few hours
before we retired back to a warm gasthaus for some Weissbier and steak. </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-45186513399348000532012-10-20T12:41:00.000+02:002012-10-21T13:46:10.174+02:00Don Pedro<div style="text-align: justify;">
Niederthai in Oetztal never seems to stop giving. Every year there is something new to climb. A few months ago I went up to Niederthai with Hansjörg Auer. He was trying a route, and I wasn't sure what to try. We started to talk about some projects in Niederthai and 'Don Pedro' became the obvious one to attempt. Local legend Markus Haid bolted and named the route after a speciality found in South Africa. Don Pedro started to build a reputation as this extremely hard short bouldery route next to Markus's classic Brandy Tarte. The route revolves around one really hard technical/powerful all-out dynamic move to a narrow pocket. I needed a good few attempts just to complete this move and realised that the route was possible. It took me many attempts to learn the strange body movement involved and after 6 days of effort this year I was able to make the first ascent of Don Pedro. I think the route is a hard 8c+. Hansjörg gave the route the nickname 'Hubble/Humble', it would be awesome if it became the Austrian equivalent of Ben Moon's classic Hubble. Time will tell. </div>
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Here is a video of the ascent. </div>
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<a href="http://vimeo.com/51785817">Don Pedro</a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-50001240594421307072012-10-02T15:45:00.001+02:002012-10-02T15:45:21.900+02:00Frankenjura Sep'12<div style="text-align: justify;">
A 3 week trip to France was planned but due to a busy practice the plan had to change. Living near Innsbruck is actually really good. One is pretty much in the best location for climbing in Europe with some of the best climbing areas just driving distance away. With Frankenjura just 3.5 hours away, Sabby and I decided to spend a week pulling on pockets. The first few days were really cold with our fingers freezing half way up the routes. After a day mountain biking on some of the best single trails I have ever experienced, the temperatures improved, and we started to really move on the rock. I climbed some awesome routes including Markus Bock's Paroli (8c), Morlock Shocker (8b) and Odins Tafel (8b). The climbing in Frankenjura requires a certain amount of control and there doesn't seem to be room for mistakes on the harder routes. I really like this style of climbing and I am going to work on a few weaknesses before returning for a long weekend at the end of October. </div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-61050555919497138672012-09-03T15:37:00.001+02:002012-09-03T15:37:17.318+02:00BWC Munich<div style="text-align: justify;">
The final round of the 2012 bouldering Worldcup was held at the Olympic
Stadium in Munich. The location of the event was incredible with a huge
glass roof sheltering the blocs and crowd from the thunderstorms that hit Munich throughout the weekend. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnyib9-wZtHUu_Y4SSbXav1g3eKbTy_Um55toM9gaOycgWWNhWYs6kigQRtPVzEpxwUMBRrciCy8ylTu5LsmMI7jNMOGPonsHxcP1tsQXrxI70XsqKPriW2UeF69IO8RjG1tN7oPJteqA/s1600/mel" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="213" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgnyib9-wZtHUu_Y4SSbXav1g3eKbTy_Um55toM9gaOycgWWNhWYs6kigQRtPVzEpxwUMBRrciCy8ylTu5LsmMI7jNMOGPonsHxcP1tsQXrxI70XsqKPriW2UeF69IO8RjG1tN7oPJteqA/s320/mel" width="320" /></a>Since the Adidas Rockstars event I really focused on training. I went running, mountain biked to the boulder room and worked on my core strength. I wanted to do well. I really wanted to be able to give everything and I felt really prepared going into the event. The qualification round went well and I qualified for the semi-final. </div>
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The Semi-final was going to be hard. I knew that I had to just try and flash as many blocs as I could to stand a chance for a place in the final. The first bloc went ok, I managed to get the bonus 1st go but powered out higher up. The next 3 blocs suited me perfectly and I managed to flash them. I looked up at the results table and saw that I'd qualified for the final in 3rd place!</div>
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The final was unbelievable with the crowd pushing the athletes up the athletic boulders. I felt strong but on the very last boulder after a good flash attempt I found a flaw in my fitness and was unable to recover for another good go. I finished 6th. </div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-75743964892679735122012-07-13T11:44:00.000+02:002012-07-13T11:47:07.648+02:00Ganesha, Elefanten Wand<table cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="float: left; margin-right: 1em; text-align: left;"><tbody>
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Some time back Hansjörg Auer and Heiko Wilhelm found a new wall in Ötztal and named it ‘Elephants Wall’. Hansjörg had bolted one particular line that slowly built up a grand reputation as one of the hardest routes in Ötztal. He eventually opened it for others to try in 2011. Lukas Ennemoser and I started to attempt the project towards the end of last year. We were both making good progress before the winter arrived. We often talked about the route on dark wintry training nights and deep down we both wanted to claim the first ascent. <br />
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A short break form the Bouldering World Cups allowed me to climb more on the rock and I worked my way through some routes and boulder problems that I’d planned to do. I wanted a challenge and I became really psyched for Hansjörg’s project again. I had a few sessions on my fingerboard to improve my open hand strength and a few sessions at the wall to improve my boulder strength. After a few days work, I was able to complete the project on Saturday 7th July and named it ‘Ganesha’ and estimated the grade to be around Fr8c/+. It certainly feels harder than the routes graded Fr8c that I have climbed. <br />
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There is an extension to Ganesha that I am going to start trying as soon as I am back from the UK. </div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-65549320704855542532012-07-02T11:09:00.001+02:002012-07-02T13:30:30.399+02:00Moria, Niederthai<div style="text-align: justify;">
It was 35°C in Längenfeld on Saturday. The only place to climb was Niederthai. We walked through the forest to the wall where cold air shoots up through the gaps between the boulders. Niederthai always feels special. It's a place that's filled with history and is often a good place to escape. </div>
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I had tried Moria (8b+/c) a few times but never found it in good conditions. The route was first climbed by Heiko Wilhelm in 2005 and was originally named 'Wilhelm's Platte'. The route was totally dry and after placing the quickdraws and refining my sequence, I climbed it. I have never climbed a route of this difficulty that is as technical as Moria. </div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-88623257742385396792012-06-12T15:59:00.000+02:002012-06-21T21:30:44.421+02:00Drill Addiction?<div style="text-align: justify;">
With the unexpected discovery of a virgin granite wall in Ötztal, I have discovered a new side of climbing. On Sunday I made my first pure first ascent of a sport route, experiencing the whole process of defining the line, bolting, cleaning and eventually climbing it. The route is named 'Behind the Tree' as it was originally hidden behind a dozen of huge pine branches before I exposed the line. The route route is graded 8b. The wall is now full of projects from various climbers in Ötztal and it's a real joy helping to develop an amazing crag.</div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-89793845280636728392012-06-02T20:18:00.000+02:002012-06-03T11:32:08.983+02:00La Coka Nostra 8A (sit down start)Had a great day at Tumpen today. The Ötztaler Ache flowing through the valley is full with melt water at the moment and as one boulders the deafening sound of the river behind is awesome! I'd heard about a new boulder 'La Coka Nostra' 8A and was keen to give it a go. It's a link up of two boulders that I did some time ago, 'Crocodile' and 'Diamonds are Forever'. I worked out the moves and after a short rest climbed it. A fantastic boulder with some powerful clamping between slopers and crimps. Definitely one of the best blocs in Ötztal and a solid 8A.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-43633791775999105782012-05-24T19:09:00.005+02:002012-05-24T19:15:43.850+02:00BWC Innsbruck<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGZ-u7g7GBT03CRk1cbqBpvS8ZxXwI49MEU-MuUxpk0u8sEzSWrjHe6gMEVPFCZ0aDzeDHR4UvVYps8bxP4WySrWUcVeVhJnHbCEn4qYG7meiG7wSLEsfWh56nSq2gZuFLIKl1iAgCU-0/s1600/header.png" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="54" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhGZ-u7g7GBT03CRk1cbqBpvS8ZxXwI49MEU-MuUxpk0u8sEzSWrjHe6gMEVPFCZ0aDzeDHR4UvVYps8bxP4WySrWUcVeVhJnHbCEn4qYG7meiG7wSLEsfWh56nSq2gZuFLIKl1iAgCU-0/s200/header.png" width="200" /></a></div>
On 18th and 19th May Innsbruck held the fourth round of the 2012 IFSC Bouldering World Cup.<br />
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Innsbruck is possibly the perfect city for mountain people and with the competition being held in the central market square with the awe-inspiring ‘Nordkette’ mountain range as a backdrop, the competition was bound to be well supported by the local population. <br />
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Innsbruck has built up a solid reputation as the World’s capital of competition climbing and expectations for the event were high. Athletes from all around the World battled their way through the difficult qualification round on Friday. Shauna Coxsey, Ned Feehally and I made it through to the semi-final on Saturday. Dave Barrans and Mina Leslie-Wujastyk just missed out on qualifying. <br />
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Saturday morning soon arrived and the athletes made their way back into the isolation zone situated next to the River Inn. I was out first and although I was relatively relaxed, I still wanted to do well and secure a much sought after top-10 placement. After a good warm up session with team mate Ned, I felt prepared and managed to flash 3 blocs. Ned was soon out and managed to top 3 blocs. We discussed the blocs after and realised that we may have secured a place in the final that evening. Ned had a nail-biting wait as the World Champion, Dmitrii Sharafutdinov, attempted to climb the last semi-final boulder. He needed a good few attempts to start it meaning that Ned had gained a place in the final. Shauna Coxsey put in a strong performance on the semi-final boulders securing a place in the final too.<br />
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Three British climbers were going to be climbing in a Boulder World Cup final that evening! <br />
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The bars and restaurants surrounding the market square soon filled up on Saturday evening ready for the final. The athletes were called up one by one for the presentation in front of a sea of 3500 spectators. The atmosphere was fantastic!<br />
Shauna Coxsey looked as though she was going to take gold until a few mistakes on the final boulder left her in 2nd place behind the local girl Anna Stoehr. Kilian Fischhuber took first place ahead of Rustam Gelmanov and Sean McColl. Ned and I ended up with 5th and 6th places respectively.<br />
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The competiton was shown on Austrian national TV, check it out <a href="http://tvthek.orf.at/programs/3962614-Klettern--Boulder-Weltcup">here</a><br />
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The next round of the 2012 IFSC Bouldering World Cup will be held on 1st and 2nd July in Vail, USA. Mina Leslie-Wujastyk, Shauna Coxsey, Tyler Landman, Dave Barrans and David Mason will be competing. <br />
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I have a short break from competitions now before the World Cup in Munich in August. I have a few projects planned for the next few weeks and a trip planned back to the UK for my brother's graduation day.<br />
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<br />Thanks to Heiko Wilhelm for the images. <br />
<span id="goog_1401812490"></span><span id="goog_1401812491"></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-67134093847103453432012-05-10T12:12:00.000+02:002012-05-10T14:03:03.371+02:00Peak to Creek<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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As I often do, one evening I was staring up at the mountains contemplating, when my phone rang; it was Lukas 'Sir' Ennemoser.</div>
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"Stew!"</div>
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A short silence.</div>
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"Yes Lu, what's up?"</div>
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"What are you doing next Monday?" </div>
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"Why?" </div>
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"There is this event in Oetztal, Jan Ullrich will be there and loads of other famous athletes, we just need to climb a route, it'll be easy!"</div>
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I was obviously keen on taking part and checked out what Lu had got me into. It turned out to be a relay race from Soelden to Oetz involving most of the outdoor sports that Oetztal has to offer. Some big names in alpine skiing, mountain biking, mountain running, cycling, ski-touring, para-gliding and kayaking were involved and I felt privileged to be a part of it. We were split into 3 teams involving one athlete from every sport in the race. My team consisted of Guenter Mader (alpine skiing), Simon Scheiber (mountain biking), Markus kroell (mountain running), Jan Ullrich (cycling), Alexander Fasser (ski-touring), Thomas De Dorlodot (Paragliding) and Jakobus Stenglein (kayak). As the teams raced through the valley of Oetztal, locals were confused by the chaos and the deafening noise of the Red Bull helicopter following the athletes. The teams ended up in rafting boats in Oetz and we all paddled like mad men to the finishing line at Area47 to be greeted by a beach party with a Red Bull stunt plane flying over-head. A fantastic event.</div>
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<a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8aA4UbmYxlM&feature=share">Peak to Creek Video</a></div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-83483734715229851712012-05-01T12:01:00.000+02:002012-05-01T12:01:37.090+02:00BWC ViennaThis year's competitions are not going too well so far. I can't seem to get into the all-important mental zone at the moment. I feel stronger than I have in previous years but seem to have lost confidence. The field is, as always, very strong and one is unfortunately left no room for mistakes. I have just over two weeks before the next event where i'll be attempting to climb on the rock as much as possible and regaining the invaluable confidence an athlete needs in competitions.
The competition season, however, is going very well for some climbers. Shauna climbed exceptionally well and finished in 4th. Dave Barrans just missed the semi-final and the Austrian Team are on fire.
The next round is in Innsbruck. It's going to be a mega event.Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-23730284664574408652012-04-24T11:56:00.000+02:002012-04-24T11:58:59.667+02:00BWC Log-Dragomer<div style="text-align: justify;">
The 2nd round of the 2012 Bouldering World Cup was held in the small Slovenian village of Log-Dragomer just outside of Ljubljana. Jacky Godoffe was the chief route setter so some interesting blocs/puzzles were to be expected. <br />
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I went into the event physically well prepared but just couldn’t get into the all important mental zone. The competition field is so strong at present and there’s literally no room for mistakes. I was having a bad day and that cost me a place into the semi-final. I finished 23rd. <br />
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Dave Barrans was climbing very well and made it into the semi-final on Sunday where he climbed 2 blocs finishing in 17th. <br />
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A real highlight of the event was watching Shauna Coxsey cruising through the qualification and semi-final into the final where she climbed incredibly well finishing 2nd after an awe-inspiring performance from Mina Markovic. <br />
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The next event is in Vienna starting this Friday. Tomasz Oleksy is the chief route setter, so powerful moves between crimps are to be expected! </div>
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More info on the next event can be found here <a href="http://www.boulder-worldcup.com/en/bouldering/home.html">IFSC BWC Vienna</a><br />
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<span id="goog_191887020"></span><span id="goog_191887021"></span>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-77630473949479857652012-03-29T20:10:00.000+02:002012-03-29T20:10:41.431+02:00Austria-Cup Hallein<div style="text-align: justify;">
The second round of the Austrian Bouldering Cup was held in Hallein. It was a great comp to test how my training is going. I felt strong on some certain styles and less confident on others. I ended up in 4th behind Jakob, Kili and Lu. Lu and myself have some ideas for the next few weeks to finely tune our training ready for the 2012 Bouldering World Cup season. This year's training has gone incredibly quickly. I think it's due to trying a few new ideas throughout the different phases and doing lots of cross-training i.e. back country skiing.</div>
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The first round of the BWC is in Log-Dragomer (SLO) 21st April, but in the meantime we'll be heading up to Munich for a training weekend and over to Tessin for some granite bouldering. </div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-56747042318132995322012-03-05T20:57:00.000+01:002012-03-06T10:21:39.882+01:00Fontainebleau Trip<div style="text-align: justify;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaXhScxhFDNnG5EGJdpSrUnkQmFxSMcxhGmIv4C8RfGXgTGIIEIBin7wQxQcOCP7KG8H_q52f4wJMD-y3RsaZpA5v4DU5IWGAOYqVh3gHTXbX6KbUBRUopjHo7AGy4F1AKTCbcF_l1gjw/s1600/HW-120227-fontainebleau-8591.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="clear: left; float: left; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="133" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaXhScxhFDNnG5EGJdpSrUnkQmFxSMcxhGmIv4C8RfGXgTGIIEIBin7wQxQcOCP7KG8H_q52f4wJMD-y3RsaZpA5v4DU5IWGAOYqVh3gHTXbX6KbUBRUopjHo7AGy4F1AKTCbcF_l1gjw/s200/HW-120227-fontainebleau-8591.jpg" width="200" /></a>Back from a week in the magical forest of Fontainebleau. The weather was on our side as we moved from area to area climbing some of the most inspiring lines around. We worked our way through some incredible boulders such as Kheops, L'Apparemment, Partage, Hot Line, Lady Big Claque and many more. </div>
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We spent one day at Jacky Godoffe's bouldering wall at the military station in the old town of Fontainebleau to train on some competition style blocs set by a group of route setters including my good friend Jamie Cassidy. </div>
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I am looking forward to 2012, competing in the bouldering circuit and making inspiring trips like this one.<br />
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Here are a few images from the trip captured by Heiko Wilhelm. <br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.comtag:blogger.com,1999:blog-5921577108837597737.post-29363097453089659232012-01-08T12:40:00.001+01:002012-01-08T12:44:15.238+01:00Ski Touring<a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2_oX0XYOcvRBKGvuLxVZgBfWywCaQR5BZ4ZccUpMpmIHfBbOa3495vmzttL83pZGNwymWsH0wui5lWPTyvpH_CPx5cLGZTHtLRZMTra43ZOPWzU1prqkH19BpHgkmEkHTl0cM3l7qRqg/s1600/IMG_2735-2.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 80px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2_oX0XYOcvRBKGvuLxVZgBfWywCaQR5BZ4ZccUpMpmIHfBbOa3495vmzttL83pZGNwymWsH0wui5lWPTyvpH_CPx5cLGZTHtLRZMTra43ZOPWzU1prqkH19BpHgkmEkHTl0cM3l7qRqg/s200/IMG_2735-2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5695225325385097106" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSzSf6mB_5iko82sMCQYnmQdB6BeMSU3Wny2QTBMGuBBmMlQ3ZBatrYwmNGltoXMoZXxjymWNBMHeKv0sUqO0fXtgCxN6J5-oydo4oWB-qhMwEZ69mOAxxsNuKmLMQi4ZhDGlHK30QvIs/s1600/IMG_2736-2.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 194px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSzSf6mB_5iko82sMCQYnmQdB6BeMSU3Wny2QTBMGuBBmMlQ3ZBatrYwmNGltoXMoZXxjymWNBMHeKv0sUqO0fXtgCxN6J5-oydo4oWB-qhMwEZ69mOAxxsNuKmLMQi4ZhDGlHK30QvIs/s200/IMG_2736-2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5695225320175064146" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRdkDEQ2Ty7kduyZLVxrkRBUjO3kD2KHVHBqeTt_fKdhhGJW72aVBIt81AaswaiLOzMMfzMz1jInpESbpSxlqeS4VqgZGAQidrZDwLcIC7_czKOELrrdn2PrMZXdjClEBltkmtsrdyk1E/s1600/IMG_2733-2.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 158px; height: 200px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiRdkDEQ2Ty7kduyZLVxrkRBUjO3kD2KHVHBqeTt_fKdhhGJW72aVBIt81AaswaiLOzMMfzMz1jInpESbpSxlqeS4VqgZGAQidrZDwLcIC7_czKOELrrdn2PrMZXdjClEBltkmtsrdyk1E/s200/IMG_2733-2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5695225311848223906" border="0" /></a><br /><br /><br /><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWbZg0oLhHCcVKg_gJ9pARS42rVGqltCcIq-4UZPTeDY81bwprmPTdxDrUfpnzHOeYCUNep4y3S3QyxAtbOHSNK6OCn7dk1UGYC6VT8KTiZuG8A7vN-lhnHL49CaP3DUiaj9nbEMSZ04E/s1600/IMG_2739-2.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 91px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhWbZg0oLhHCcVKg_gJ9pARS42rVGqltCcIq-4UZPTeDY81bwprmPTdxDrUfpnzHOeYCUNep4y3S3QyxAtbOHSNK6OCn7dk1UGYC6VT8KTiZuG8A7vN-lhnHL49CaP3DUiaj9nbEMSZ04E/s200/IMG_2739-2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5695224948826565186" border="0" /></a><a onblur="try {parent.deselectBloggerImageGracefully();} catch(e) {}" href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7pgdLZKBqP25KTNEpbJyNQukEW6GIjVDn_HL5sbXmVnMn5XBp3YshD3QVDdsY_4aRedNNLFxrjUPWCMXrShw3NGX0gUKuAgofmgcZN-VmaQXfVgxQg5svY9FM5q4pKPHDZRtURsLOSoA/s1600/IMG_2744-2.jpg"><img style="cursor:pointer; cursor:hand;width: 200px; height: 60px;" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7pgdLZKBqP25KTNEpbJyNQukEW6GIjVDn_HL5sbXmVnMn5XBp3YshD3QVDdsY_4aRedNNLFxrjUPWCMXrShw3NGX0gUKuAgofmgcZN-VmaQXfVgxQg5svY9FM5q4pKPHDZRtURsLOSoA/s200/IMG_2744-2.jpg" alt="" id="BLOGGER_PHOTO_ID_5695225334486531330" border="0" /></a>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com