Plans 07/08

Well I've had to forget Mordor now until next year...it's just too cold. I've waited for a warm day for the last 4 weeks but it's just getting colder and the snow is falling! It's kind of cool because now I have a major focus in the winter and I've planned my training so that I will be able to climb it in March next year. To be honest I have no stress with this route and I just enjoy trying it, on my last days trying it I was able to climb the 25m 8c section around 3/4 times in a day so my fitness has improved alot! The other day I sorted my training out with Sabby...it's kind of cool and I've never tried it before but it seems to be what all the good climbers in Tirol seem to do so lets see what happens! Next year I want to be able to establish myself in the 8c route/8b boulder grade and I think with training I should reach this goal. But for now I'm just focusing on my training and climbing some hard bouders on granite. I have been trying a bloc in Zillertal called "Incubator". It was 1st climbed by Markus Schwaiger but was originally Jerry Moffat's project. It's graded 8B and is one of the best boulders i have ever tried. It's on a 45 degree overhanging granite wall with perfect edges and big locks. I went to try it on Sat but couldn't do one move until some cool Austrian Boulderers came and told me the way and now it is on! I'm england now for a week but will go back and try it early next week. I think this week i'll head to Raven Tor and see what looks good. Hooligan sounds good..boulder into 8b!

Again....

Went to try Mordor again today, felt much better today but still need one rest just below crux! Here are some vids taken today on Sabby's phone.

Niederthai....again.

Tried Mordor again today and now it is getting soooooo close. I did it twice with just 1 short rest below crux section (the route is approx 25m-30m). I realised today that WHEN/if I do this route I'll be the 2nd brit to climb this grade abroad. Going back to the UK next Friday for 1 week for Team Training and to attempt the Ace so should be cool. Can't wait to feel the grit again. Here's a pic from Slipstones earlier this year, it makes my hands sweat looking at it.

Die Perfekte Welle

I climbed another new problem at Tumpen (Austria). It's a perfect 7m overhanging arete with really nice bouncy moves between slopey holds. I found it tough to grade but I think v12 is about right. Hopefully the grade will be confirmed soon. check out the website http://www.oetztalclimbing.com/ for more info about climbing in this valley. Hopefully a small topo will be produced for Tumpen and I would like climbers who have climbed in this bouldering area to contact me.

Tumpen Bloc

Climbed two new problems at Tumpen the other day: Crocodile v10/11 and ? v8+ The bouldering in Tumpen is fantastic, it's basically Magic Woods but just smaller. There are a few hard problems here now in the v10/11 range on pristine granite with perfect landings (better than Magic). Yesterday I started work on a new project, its a 25ft overhanding arete on amazing granite and has perfect moves....it overhangs by 45degrees and the ground travels up behind it so it's perfectly safe. I did all the moves yesterday and it feels in the region of v12 and it will be a world classic (seriously it is one of the best lines I have ever seen). I am thinking of writing an article in a British climbing mag to try and get some people here. Ben Meeks is planning a trip over here to check this place out and it will be cool to see what he says. If you want any information about this place just contact me by email: s.watson@gmx.at

Frankenjura

I decided to pull-out of the World Championships after having a in-growing toe nail removed....ouch. However, last weekend the pain went and I could wear a climbing shoe again (typical). It was really annoying to be not competing in the world champs because I felt strong and psyched to do some hard moves. Anyway, I decided to go to the Frankenjura to attempt Jerry Moffatt's "Stonelove" 8b+. We arrived and went straight to the Eldorado sector, I warmed up on a cool 7c and then checked out the moves on Stonelove, had a few minutes rest and did it. I was really pleased because normally you here climbers talking about a hard swing move on a 2 finger pocket but I managed to static the move by getting my feet really high. I climbed lots of nice 7c's and a cool 8b called "Subway". I thought it was hard for 8b and I'm amazed that Simpson on-sighted it....incredible. Hope to go back next week to attempt some more classic Frankenjura routes.

Castelbianco

Arco

Went to Castelbianco in Italy sport climbing. An awesome area with big caves and long pumpy routes. I finally onsighted an 8a+...a really steep powerful thing with beautiful moves. Psyched for a trip to Frankenjura soon...a 3 hour drive up the motorway! Austria is awesome!