Passport to Honesty 8c, Oetztal

On Wednesday I made the 2nd ascent of Hansjorg Auer's route 'Passport to Honesty' in Oetztal. The route is outstanding. The initial slab sets you up for an all-out dyno from two small crimps to a huge jug around the lip of a small roof. After this you can recover and re-focus for the scary upper prow. The route feels a little more committing than just a normal sport route, it kind of has Hansjorg written all over it. The last clip is impossible to clip so you end up climbing a good few meters above your last bolt with massive fall potential if you fall from the last slopey section. The redpoint went really well and it was a little unexpected.

Ötzi Trifft Yeti, Dolomites

When Heiko mentioned that a trip to the Dolomites would be cool, I didn't really think much about it and just went with the flow. A few days before our departure Heiko sent me a link with the route info and at that moment I realised what I'd got myself into. I don't really have much alpine climbing experience, I have always tried to stay clear of it for some unknown reason. I analysed the route map and decided it was way too much considering my little experience. Heiko encouraged me that it would be fine so I went to the local crag and practised my rope work a little and decided to go for it. The night before I didn't sleep too well, strange thoughts were whizzing through my head and I felt unsettled. We awoke early and drove down to the Dolomites and my concerns disappeared as soon as I saw the mountains jutting though the early morning mist. The first couple of pitches went well and I slowly got into the style of the climbing. We started flowing up the wall and the pitches started to feel shorter as we ascended. It was a mega feeling pulling over the last roof with nothing between my boots and the ground 300m below. After a scary abseil, a few beers and a good pizza I was lying in my sleeping bag dreaming of the route.

Ötzi trifft Yeti (300m, 8+)

Kleine Zinne - Dolomiten

Topo

IFSC World Climbing Championships Arco

The world's capital of climbing, Arco, held the 2011 World Climbing Championships. The event was not just a climbing competition, it was a celebration of the sport.

150 athletes competed in the men's bouldering event and it was going to be tough to reach the semi-final with so many strong climbers present. I was able to climb 3 blocs and qualified for the semi-final. The next day I chilled out and thought about the following round. I felt really determined. I ended up 9th. The final was incredible, the field below the stage was completely full of spectators and some of the performances from the athletes were just mind-blowing.

Thanks to Nick Clement and Tom Sugden for providing support throughout the event, it was very much appreciated.

Boulder Worldcup Sheffield

The latest round of the 2011 bouldering worldcup was held as part of the vibrant Cliffhanger event in Sheffield. The competition was a mega success thanks to the experienced organisers and route setters. The British bouldering team performed fantastically with a number of the British athletes competing in the semi-final. I was satisfied with my 12th place in the semi-final and enjoyed a week back at home in Manchester after the event.

Boulder Worldcup Barcelona (ESP)

The 7th round of the 2011 bouldering worldcup was held in the beautiful city of Barcelona.

The event was unfortunately held indoors and it was a real challenge to stay focused when the temperatures seared through the roof. Towards the end of the event the heat in the builing had beaten most of the athletes and the air was thick with disappointment.

Looking on the positive side, the British Team climbed very well and we had 5 athletes in the semi-final. I finished 14th in the semi-final.

Boulder Worldcup Eindhoven (NED)

Between spells of heavy rain the Worldcup in Eindhoven (NED) ran very smoothly. The competition was, yet again, a mega success with a great location and some of the best competition blocs I have ever tried - good work Cassidy and team!

Dave Barrans climbed very well and made his first final of the 2011 season finishing in 6th place. Fischhuber won yet another event and looks unstoppable. Woods pleased the crowd with a display of immense power. Akiyo Noguchi made some strange shapes on the wall and Anna looks like she is going to take the overall worldcup title.

I was very pleased to climb in the semi-final again where I finished 14th. The next round is in Barcelona.

Boulder Worldcup Log-Dragomer (SLO)

The second round of the 2011 bouldering worldcup was held in the sleepy town of Dragomer in Slovenia. The competition was very well organised and the semi-final and final well supported from a very loud crowd. I qualified for the semi-final and finished 9th.

Anna Stöhr (AUT) climbd exceptionally well taking the victory ahead of Akiyo Noguchi (JPN) and Alex Puccio (USA). By the guys, Guillaume Mondet (FRA) took first place ahead of Dmitry Shrafutdinov (RUS) and Kilian Fischhuber (AUT).


The next event is in Vienna, Austria.