18 May 2008

Paul's Kotz-Attacke 8a+ (Heiko Wilhelm)
I'd heard from some local climbers that Markus Haid had climbed a really good new route at a crag just 5mins down the road. The crag, Nosslach, is amazing with so many 3star routes in the 7th grade. I climbed a few of these routes and decided to give the new route a go. It involves an amazing overhang with some athletic moves on crimps....perfect. I had a quick go onsight but it didn't work and climbed it 2nd go. I thought the route was around the Fr8a+ grade but Markus had given the route Fr8b and other people agreed with 8b. Keine Ahnung.

11 May 2008

Quick Update

Just had 2 days on Mordor and it's feeling much better this year. The crux seems to feel much easier because i'm putting in a small drop knee before making the move meaning my body is closer to the wall. I just need to work away and hopefully i'll climb it soon. Before trying Mordor today I climbed 'Oman Calling' (8b) 2nd go which was nice because it's really technical.

6 May 2008

Frankenjura Trip

Just got back form a great trip to frankenjura with my Dad, it was great to climb with him again. He is inspirational and it's funny to watch the reactions of younger climbers when a 59 year old burns them off!!! Here's what I did:

Day 1:
Went to Zwergenschloss and climbed PlanB (8b) and the Angry Inch (8b+). I'd just worked the crux of the Angry Inch and not bothered looking at the top pumpy section, so had to onsight that section...a tense moment. I asked some guys for the beta on Powerplay and I'm psyched to give it a go next time.

Went to Puettlacher Wand and climbed a great 7c with a really powerful move at the top. I was psyched to have a go at killer (8b) at Schuettersmuehler Wand. Walked up and it was in the Sun but tied on anyway and had a few goes. I nearly climbed the route on my 3rd go but fell just after the crux (big fall!) and decided to leave it for the next morning when it would be cooler.

Woke up really early and went to a crag to warm-up. Felt really good and headed for Killer and climbed the route 1st go....fantastic route with typical Frankenjura pockets. After went on the Pottensteiner tobogan..well good. Went to Grossweinsteiner wand and flashed a classic jura route Sautanz (7b+). I really wanted to try Unplugged but couldn't find the crag and ended up on the Burn 4U sector. Had a look at Burn 4U but couldn't work out which way to go on the crux. I didn't know at the time that the route to the right was Corona (9a+) and thought that Burn 4U goes up right and back left so ended up doing some of the crux of Corona. Def gonna have a go at Burn 4U again.

Went to Wiessenstein and met Patxi warming up for Action. Climbed 4 routes upto 7c and then left for Austria. I'd love to try Action but nervous because I don't want to bugger my fingers up. Think I'll do some training and have a look netx time.

1 May 2008