12 Jun 2012

Drill Addiction?

With the unexpected discovery of a virgin granite wall in Ötztal, I have discovered a new side of climbing. On Sunday I made my first pure first ascent of a sport route, experiencing the whole process of defining the line, bolting, cleaning and eventually climbing it. The route is named 'Behind the Tree' as it was originally hidden behind a dozen of huge pine branches before I exposed the line. The route route is graded 8b. The wall is now full of projects from various climbers in Ötztal and it's a real joy helping to develop an amazing crag.

2 Jun 2012

La Coka Nostra 8A (sit down start)

Had a great day at Tumpen today. The Ötztaler Ache flowing through the valley is full with melt water at the moment and as one boulders the deafening sound of the river behind is awesome! I'd heard about a new boulder 'La Coka Nostra' 8A and was keen to give it a go. It's a link up of two boulders that I did some time ago, 'Crocodile' and 'Diamonds are Forever'. I worked out the moves and after a short rest climbed it. A fantastic boulder with some powerful clamping between slopers and crimps. Definitely one of the best blocs in Ötztal and a solid 8A.