Last year we found one of the best new climbing areas in Tirol and the
projects are slowly getting ticked off by the Oetztal climbing team. Elias
Holzknecht bolted one of the king lines at the crag and kindly decided
to declare his project open and free for people to try. I was keen to
get stuck into a project and started working out the crux sequence. The
route is incredible. It involves a pumpy bottom section leading to an
amazing rest followed by a few really powerful moves on compact black
granite. The upper section, winding up towards the chain, is technical and
involves squeezing some wide granite pinches.
The route is named ‘Black Mamba Don’t Text’ and is graded Fr8a+.
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| Lukas Ennemoser on the 2nd Ascent |
