Die Perfekte Welle

I climbed another new problem at Tumpen (Austria). It's a perfect 7m overhanging arete with really nice bouncy moves between slopey holds. I found it tough to grade but I think v12 is about right. Hopefully the grade will be confirmed soon. check out the website http://www.oetztalclimbing.com/ for more info about climbing in this valley. Hopefully a small topo will be produced for Tumpen and I would like climbers who have climbed in this bouldering area to contact me.

Tumpen Bloc

Climbed two new problems at Tumpen the other day: Crocodile v10/11 and ? v8+ The bouldering in Tumpen is fantastic, it's basically Magic Woods but just smaller. There are a few hard problems here now in the v10/11 range on pristine granite with perfect landings (better than Magic). Yesterday I started work on a new project, its a 25ft overhanding arete on amazing granite and has perfect moves....it overhangs by 45degrees and the ground travels up behind it so it's perfectly safe. I did all the moves yesterday and it feels in the region of v12 and it will be a world classic (seriously it is one of the best lines I have ever seen). I am thinking of writing an article in a British climbing mag to try and get some people here. Ben Meeks is planning a trip over here to check this place out and it will be cool to see what he says. If you want any information about this place just contact me by email: s.watson@gmx.at

Frankenjura

I decided to pull-out of the World Championships after having a in-growing toe nail removed....ouch. However, last weekend the pain went and I could wear a climbing shoe again (typical). It was really annoying to be not competing in the world champs because I felt strong and psyched to do some hard moves. Anyway, I decided to go to the Frankenjura to attempt Jerry Moffatt's "Stonelove" 8b+. We arrived and went straight to the Eldorado sector, I warmed up on a cool 7c and then checked out the moves on Stonelove, had a few minutes rest and did it. I was really pleased because normally you here climbers talking about a hard swing move on a 2 finger pocket but I managed to static the move by getting my feet really high. I climbed lots of nice 7c's and a cool 8b called "Subway". I thought it was hard for 8b and I'm amazed that Simpson on-sighted it....incredible. Hope to go back next week to attempt some more classic Frankenjura routes.

Castelbianco

Arco

Went to Castelbianco in Italy sport climbing. An awesome area with big caves and long pumpy routes. I finally onsighted an 8a+...a really steep powerful thing with beautiful moves. Psyched for a trip to Frankenjura soon...a 3 hour drive up the motorway! Austria is awesome!

Weekend Trip to Avers

Voigas V12

Headed to Averstal for the weekend and met Dave Mason there. The weather was pretty bad, so I was pleased to find some dry rock. I climbed Voigas v12 and tried New Baseline v14/15. The moves felt hard but I could do all but one where you have to bring your feet from the right to the left, it needs a little more work but I think I can climb this problem by the end of the season. It's annoying having two things (Mordor and New Baseline) that feel possible but need time....which one do you chose? I think Mordor is more important to me........

Attempting Mordor

Surf Trip

Back in Austria now from an attempted surf trip. We went to Tarifa but it was the wrong season for surf (like skiing in the Summer). But we had a go at Windsurfing...psyched to get really into this sport, boardsports seem to be my thing and I can't wait for the winter season to ditch my Atomic Skiis and buy a board, I'm thinking of getting a race board where speed is the main element.

Anyway, even more psyched to do Mordor now.