Chironico

Amazing 2 day trip with Sabby in Chironico.

Day 1: Sabby really wanted to climb Dr Pinch (V11) so we drove out to Chironico on Friday for a quick trip. We warmed up by climbing a mega highball slab, Hans Jorg would of been proud! Sabby worked out moves on doc pinch and after an hour climbed the problem (check out her blog for some pics etc), respect Sabby. I really wanted to climb Boogalagga and started work figuring out the moves...amazing. I had the moves wired and was pretty sure I could do it. I had 2 attempts on the first crux move and felt the dreaded feeling of a split tip (so typical). I decided to leave it for the next trip and climb the V11 to the right 'Walker on Earth', involving a mono...was loving it.
Day 2: We woke up to goats surrounding the car, was pretty scared because one was bigger than Sabby, not exactly hard to achieve, but still scary. Today was going to be a day where we were going to climb as many blocs as possible. We climbed so much, but some highlights include a flash ascent of 'Serre moi Fort' (V11). Was echt a whansin, Gu gave me the beta and I got pretty psyched...cool topping out...totally surreal. Another highlight was 'Les Cliques a Claques' (V9); a classic problem. I think I have finally improved my slab skills thanks to Heiko's coaching.
Going skiing now

working, training, working, training

The time is passing so fast this year, can't believe it's nearly march. Training is going really well, started campussing and climbing loads of blocs, and I'm feeling really fast. Sabby is looking strong, never seen her so strong. We are both looking forward to the WC in Japan, will be interesting to compete and climb on the surrounding rocks. I had a quick trip to switzerland last weekend with the Oetztaler team and some Innsbruck guys...was really cool. Managed to flash a V10 in cresciano and we climbed some hard slabs. This trip was a little unusual for me, normally I want to tick something hard and I put a little pressure upon myself, during this trip I just climbed loads of blocs and was more interested by the technical blocs. I did, however, have a quick look at Dreamtime, I really want to climb this boulder in the future. I have also decided to stop updating my 8a.nu logbook because it doesn't interest me anymore and I find the whole thing a little strange. On a sad note, an old climbing friend of my Dad's, Brian Roberts, had a walking accident and died a few weeks ago, really sad but at least he died doing something that every climber loves...been in the mountains.

update

Over the past few months I have been very busy with my new business 'body²' and training. I am really looking forward to this year from a career and climbing point of view. I want to climb things that really mean something to me and give these climbs everything, I need to fulfill a sense of adventure and climb in the mountains! LOS GEHTS!

Weekend on Swiss Granite

It has been snowing so much in Austria...great for skiing and training! Last weekend I finally had some time away from work and went to Switzerland! We arrived in Chironico and discovered that it had snowed there too, found Dave and Ellie buried in the snow and went climbing! Climbed Dr Pinch (V10) and La Boule (V11). La Boule is amazing, the 1st hard move involves holding a press with left hand and you have to hold your body in the correct position to make the next move, it took me a while to get the right body position and then I climbed the bloc...fantastic last move to jug!

I started the 2nd phase of my training plan this week..Kraft training! I had a session in the gym on Tuesday and felt so weak! Another week of just gym work and then I start specific power training for climbing in addition to the gym work. It feels really good to be following a training plan, I feel so much fitter already and looking foward to another trip to Switzerland later this month to shock the body!

chiao

Endurance Training!

I started phase 1 of my training plan this week and it's hurting big time, it basically involves getting pumped over and over again and been amazed by how much stamina Babsy has. Going skiing on Sunday with the Austrian Climbing Team...it´s gonna be awesome because I think there will be some powder snow. Hopefully going to swiss next weekend to meet Dave Barrans, will do a few sessions on fingerboard before to make sure fingers are feeling strong.

craziest project in Ötztal

After spending Saturday moving snow around we went to have a look HJ´s new area in Ötztal. I was well psyched because he was always talking about it his new project, a crazy roof crack, and I wanted to check it out. When we got to the crag I couldn´t believe it, the project follows one of the best lines I have ever seen. I climbed a few other routes and made the 2nd ascent of a 3-star 7c+ with an all-out dyno to the last hold...amazin. Then I had the privilege of having a look at the project on a rope. Wow, the route follows a small crack through a huge roof with some of the best moves I have ever made with a rope on. There´s one bit where you have to make a cross-over jump into a good hold and then turn your feet around so they´re facing outwards and make a few moves in this position....crazy. I hope HJ climbs the route soon because I am so psyched!