Training

I have finished the first phase of my training plan last week and I am starting to feel very fit which means my body is ready to start training hard. The second phase will take me up to Christmas and once thats finished I am ready to start specific training for my 2008 goals. I am really looking foward to Jan'08 because I have some trips to Switzerland planned. It's going to be hard to keep disciplined during December because I am so psyched to get over to Brione to try "Vechia", because it is just 3 hours away! Maybe I'll head over for a weekend to give it a go.

Tumpen Bloc

So Ben and Rachel have checked out Tumpen Bloc and the grades and quality have been confirmed. Here is a list of the hardest Tumpen Bloc boulders:
-Die Perfecta Welle v12
-Stick it Extension v11
-Diamonds are Forever v11
-Crocodile v10/11
-Stick it v10
-The new Am Wasser Gebaut v10
and lots more in the v4-9 range.

Here is a list of projects that still to be climbed:
-The 1st proj by the path....prob v14?
-Proj on Steep triangle boulder (pic below)....prob v12/13
and a few more that need to be cleaned.

Going to start work on a topo asap, if you want a copy email me: s.watson@gmx.at

Plans 07/08

Well I've had to forget Mordor now until next year...it's just too cold. I've waited for a warm day for the last 4 weeks but it's just getting colder and the snow is falling! It's kind of cool because now I have a major focus in the winter and I've planned my training so that I will be able to climb it in March next year. To be honest I have no stress with this route and I just enjoy trying it, on my last days trying it I was able to climb the 25m 8c section around 3/4 times in a day so my fitness has improved alot! The other day I sorted my training out with Sabby...it's kind of cool and I've never tried it before but it seems to be what all the good climbers in Tirol seem to do so lets see what happens! Next year I want to be able to establish myself in the 8c route/8b boulder grade and I think with training I should reach this goal. But for now I'm just focusing on my training and climbing some hard bouders on granite. I have been trying a bloc in Zillertal called "Incubator". It was 1st climbed by Markus Schwaiger but was originally Jerry Moffat's project. It's graded 8B and is one of the best boulders i have ever tried. It's on a 45 degree overhanging granite wall with perfect edges and big locks. I went to try it on Sat but couldn't do one move until some cool Austrian Boulderers came and told me the way and now it is on! I'm england now for a week but will go back and try it early next week. I think this week i'll head to Raven Tor and see what looks good. Hooligan sounds good..boulder into 8b!

Again....

Went to try Mordor again today, felt much better today but still need one rest just below crux! Here are some vids taken today on Sabby's phone.

Niederthai....again.

Tried Mordor again today and now it is getting soooooo close. I did it twice with just 1 short rest below crux section (the route is approx 25m-30m). I realised today that WHEN/if I do this route I'll be the 2nd brit to climb this grade abroad. Going back to the UK next Friday for 1 week for Team Training and to attempt the Ace so should be cool. Can't wait to feel the grit again. Here's a pic from Slipstones earlier this year, it makes my hands sweat looking at it.

Die Perfekte Welle

I climbed another new problem at Tumpen (Austria). It's a perfect 7m overhanging arete with really nice bouncy moves between slopey holds. I found it tough to grade but I think v12 is about right. Hopefully the grade will be confirmed soon. check out the website http://www.oetztalclimbing.com/ for more info about climbing in this valley. Hopefully a small topo will be produced for Tumpen and I would like climbers who have climbed in this bouldering area to contact me.

Tumpen Bloc

Climbed two new problems at Tumpen the other day: Crocodile v10/11 and ? v8+ The bouldering in Tumpen is fantastic, it's basically Magic Woods but just smaller. There are a few hard problems here now in the v10/11 range on pristine granite with perfect landings (better than Magic). Yesterday I started work on a new project, its a 25ft overhanding arete on amazing granite and has perfect moves....it overhangs by 45degrees and the ground travels up behind it so it's perfectly safe. I did all the moves yesterday and it feels in the region of v12 and it will be a world classic (seriously it is one of the best lines I have ever seen). I am thinking of writing an article in a British climbing mag to try and get some people here. Ben Meeks is planning a trip over here to check this place out and it will be cool to see what he says. If you want any information about this place just contact me by email: s.watson@gmx.at