UK Trip

Back in Austria after visiting the UK for the BBC. I was so psyched for some classic lines on limestone but the weather was pretty bad leaving some of the crags wet. However I did climb some great routes including Ben Moon's classic 'Zeke the Freak' 8b (pic). On Sunday we went to Chee Dale and I climbed 'Entree' 8a and then I decided to have a go at the 8b to the right...the rock is perfect but I split a tip on the first move...putting a stop to my attempts. Well psyched to do it in Sep when return for the British Team training day.

British Bouldering Championships'08

What an event! The 2008 British Bouldering Championships was a mega success. The event was so much bigger and better than last year. I was amazed by how many strong climbers turned up to compete from around the UK. The qualification round went well and I felt proud to get into the final. During the break before the final I chilled out in the Sun catching up with friends, which was great. The girl's final was fantastic to watch and it's good to see some new climbers on the scene. The guy's final was one of the best ever. The final bloc would decide who would get the title between Dave, Ned and me. Dave was up 1st and missed the crucial beta on the final move and fell, then it was my turn and I missed the beta.......Ned's turn; on his 1st attempt he missed the beta and I thought I'd won but then on his 2nd attempt he climbed the boulder perfectly topping out and winning the title. I finished 2nd and Dave 3rd, complete results available at the BMC website.

So perfect venue, massive crowd, lots of respect for the comp.....it must be time to hold a round of the Bouldering World Cup at the Cliffhanger event.

Frodo's Journey 8b+

I climbed a cool link today at Niederthai that starts up Gondor and after the slopey ledge goes out right to join Waldlaeufer via a really powerful cross-move. I named it "Frodo's Journey" and graded it solid Fr8b+.

When will the journey end?

I've spent 14 days on Mordor so far and it's getting a little closer everyday. I've never had to dedicate myself to a route like this. At the moment I'm getting through the 1st crux slap and falling off the next, but on Sunday I found a bit of beta that should help on this move. So now I'm just waiting for the right conditions to go back to Niederthai and attempt it again because the weather is pretty strange here at the moment. I am enjoying the journey but looking forward to having a rest when it's complete and just climbing lots of routes and blocs. I hope to climb the route before visiting the UK next week.

Magic Wood

Chickenhead 8A (Flash)

Riverbed 8B

Had 2 days in Averstal with Sabby. 1st day went to Chickenhead with Ned, Tom, Dave and Tony and managed to flash it. After played on Riverbed and got it wired. 2nd day woke up super early to avoid sun and climbed Riverbed 1st go...perfect.

Oetztal is wet!

The weather is so bad at the moment in Oetztal. I decided to leave Mordor today due to my back and poor conditions and have a look at a hidden sector in Niederthai. The sector is located in the woods behind the main areas of Niederthai and you end up going down this big hole type thing before reaching the routes...cool. The sector has three routes 6c, 8b, 7c and they were first climbed by Markus Haid sometime ago. I cleaned up the 8b and dried some holds and I was amazed. The holds are perfect consisting of crimps and slopers with perfect flowing moves between them. I was really pleased to climb the route today but would of been best to have rested my back.

Fierra Bouldering World Cup

Two years ago I injured my back in Fierra at the Wc and it happened again this year. I'd warmed up for the quali really well and felt ready. I flashed the 1st bloc and then messed up the 2nd bloc, sat down for the 5min rest period and when I put my shoes on I felt something go in my back. I sarted to panic because I couldn't breathe deep and rotate to the right without lots of pain. I decided to just carry on and see if it got better. It didn't and I was unable to give 100% on the remaining blocs. I finished 28th climbing just 2 problems. I was very dissapointed because the blocs were perfect for me-crimpy and basic. My back is still painful but starting to ease. I have had back problems for a long time now and I am really lazy when it comes to back exercises but this has shown me just how important it is to train your whole body. The next WC is in 3 weeks so hopefully I'll be ready for it.