Castillion & Le Loup

September: The heather covering the mountains turns red, the air is crystal clear, the forest yellow, the rock dry.

The competition season had finished. Sabby and myself packed the car and drove to France. First stop was Castillion to build some endurance and relax by the sea. Next stop was Gorges du Loup. This place is unbelievable. As you walk along the base of the crag the wave of limestone towering above is overwhelming. We had no idea where to begin until some locals pointed out some of the classics. At first it was a little unusual climbing on giant tufas but after one day we learnt how to move and started climbing some incredible routes. Some highlights include Super Tango (8a+), Deverse Santique (8a+), Hot chilli Beans (8b+) and Pas Vu, Pas Pris (7c).

Want to go back!

Back in Austria the weather has been amazing but time has been a little limited as we have started renovating our new flat....sometimes feels hardeer than climbing!

European Championships Innsbruck (A)

The last event of the 2010 competition bouldering season was mega. As by previous events held in the Market Square of Innsbruck, there was a massive crowd supporting the climbers battle it out. Leading up to the event I didn't really realise what was about to happen in Innsbruck. I thought it was going to be just another competition but this event was a real break-through in competition climbing. I have never seen so many specatators fascinated in what they were witnessing. It is getting easier to understand how the competitions work thanks to people such as Tim Hatch and the interest in this sport in Tirol has boomed as a result of this event and I am very proud to of been part of it. The boulder setting was perfect with loads of different styles and interesting features, nice one Percy and the Innsbruck Team.

Performance-wise, I am satsified with my 8th place but again the final was possible.

More photos at www.euro-2010.at

(Elias Holzknecht)

Water-Cum-Jolly and Cheedale

On Friday Sabby, Kathi, Mart and myself visited Water-Cum-Jolly. The conditions were perfect with a light breeze cooling the rock. We warmed up at Rubicon and went across to the Cornice. It was totally dry. We climbed some fantastic routes including Brachiation Dance (7b+), The Free Monster (8a) and Monsterosity (8b). I think Monsterosity is the best route I have ever climbed at that grade.

People were talking about how dry Cheedale's Cornice is and that one route was crying out to be climbed: Monumental Armblaster (8a+). I never saw the route in its previous condition but can imagine just how dirty it was. Thanks to the team who cleaned the route up and have made it a pleasure to climb, again one of the best.

Back in Austria now getting ready for the European Championships in Innsbruck, should be a mega event with the wall located in the central market square.

Niederthai Weekend

The weather in Tirol has been atrocious over the past 3 weeks. Literally raining everyday. There was a short break in the bad weather over the weekend and the only place that seemed to be dry was Niederthai. My brother, Mart, is out in Austria at the moment and I pointed him towards the classic test piece "Glückshormon" Fr8b+. On Sunday he climbed the route after a good fight with bad skin, his first of the grade. The photo is of Mart setting up for the crux.

On Sunday I was able to climb the project to the left of Glückshormon. The line was originally bolted by the climbing legend Markus Haid sometime back. I tried the line last year with Sir Ennemoser and it was going well before we ripped a crucial crimp off leaving a big gap in the middle of the crux. The only way this section is now possible is with a really powerful dyno off two bad pinches. The dyno didn't feel possible last year and we declared the section impossible. I attempted the route on Saturday with Heiko and the move went. The route is named "7UP" and graded Fr8c.

Boulder Worldcup Munich (D)

The final round of the 2010 bouldering worldcup was held at the Olympic Stadium in Munich. The location of the event was incredible with a huge glass roof sheltering the blocs and crowd from the thunderstorms. The qualification round went well and I was able to climb in the next round. I was really focused in the semi-final and wanted to secure a Top-10 overall position. I was very pleased with my 9th place but like in previous events the final felt close.



My overall position for the 2010 Boulder Worldcup is 6th- a result I could of never predicted.

(Heiko Wilhelm)

Arco Rock Master 2010

The Arco Rock Master is and always will be one of the most prestigious climbing events and next year it will be the venue of the World Climbing Championships.

(Jack Geldard)

I battled through the nearly unbearable heat and finished in 12th. The legendary Rock Master was still a mega success with a massive crowd, a good atmosphere and good pizza, it was just a shame that it was held over the hottest weekend ever recorded in Arco.

(Elias Holzknecht)

Boulder Worldcup Sheffield (UK)

Sheffield held the latest round of the 2010 Bouldering Worldcup at the successful Cliff Hanger event.

The competition was a mega success with perfect weather and a massive crowd creating one of the best atmospheres of the season. The competition was very successful for the British Bouldering Team where 7 team members were able to climb in the semi-final and ranked 2nd in the team rankings.

However, it was the first event of the season where I felt really nervous before climbed so I had to really concentrate and stay focused. I finished 13th but feel slightly disappointed with my performance in the semi-final.

(Heiko Wilhelm)

Next event is the Arco Rockmaster!