los gehts!!!

The rest phase is over and I have started training for 2010. I will be training basic stamina for the next 3 weeks in Innsbruck, Imst and in the local bouldering wall. On tuesday we had a session at Tivoli doing double routes in the 7a-7c range. Towards the end of the session it was a real fight to hold on to the biggest jugs and the next day my forearms felt totally "fertig"....great feeling. Heading back to the UK for Christmas with Sabby and really looking forward to boulderig on the grit. I would like to do the Ace at Stanage...hope I'm strong enough after the stamina training?!?

Resting

At the moment I am taking a rest from climbing to let my body recover before I start preparing for 2010. I have been running and working on my core strength to ensure that I am fit enough to train effectively and I need to think of some attainable goals for next year to keep me motivated during this period. A great thing about Tirol is that you are able to do lots of diverse sports throughout the whole year meaning that you never get bored and you are able to take little breaks from training to do something fun like skiing through a forest of conifer trees with soft powder under your feet....can't wait!!!

(long slog up to 3000m peak Jan'09)

Siurana Trip

The Siruana trip was fantastic but way too short. I was a little overwhelmed by the lines, I had a few ideas of what I wanted to try before the trip but as you walk through the siurana valley every route is appealing. My dad was climbing very well...respect. Very much looking forward to returing to this magical place.

Outstanding routes of the trip:

migranya...8b (3rd go)
la cara que no miente...8a+ (2nd go)
el prado del rey...7b+
brigadistak...7a (fantastic)
lo deje to blanco...7a
xerinola...7b+ (amazing route)

Alhambra, Niederthai

On Tuesday I climbed a really nice link between 2 routes at Niederthai. Climb through the crux of Masada and finish through the last crux wall of Wargames. The link is called 'Alhambra' and it's probably around the Fr8b mark. Heading out to Siruana for a long weekend soon with my Dad. I am really looking forward to this trip but need to work on power endurance before heading out there.

Memento

Today I climbed Memento (8B+) at Silvretta. I needed 2 sessions for the boulder. Cool line in a nice setting.

(Elias Holzknecht)

8c after work

I had the afternoon off work today to go climbing with Sabby at a limestone crag, Nassereith, near Imst. I warmed-up on some really nice routes and climbed Morpheus (8c) on my 5th go spread over 2 days. The route is great, it involves some really wide moves on a 45˚ wall and a really hard slap to a crimp from an undercut at the top of the wall. Sabby is trying a hard route there, so I am looking forward to returning and attempting some of the other routes.

I'm heading back to the UK tommorrow for the British Bouldering Team Training weekend....looking forward to aching muscles on Monday.

Mordor

I don't know what to write........I literally can't express how I'm feeling right now. I first tried Mordor (8c+/9a) a few years ago and made really fast progress. The route took alot longer than expected and nothing has ever pushed me through so many physical and emotional barriers. I can't actually believe that I have done it and this epic is finally over.

(Elias Holzknecht)